The surf competition; the best in the world perhaps, took place today up at Mavericks in Half Moon Bay today. There was a chance that the waves were too treacherous and the officials would call it off, but turns out the surfers got out there as planned.
The photos of the waves are beautiful but it looks scary to me.
I remember when my older sons began surfing. Larry is/was the most active surfer. I gave them their first surfboards one year for Christmas. Several years later, Larry still goes out to surf.
One day when Larry was about 14, he hadn’t come back from surfing and it was getting late. Soon it was dark and no Larry. I contacted some friends of his who lived across the road from the beach. They went out to see if they could find him and/or his surfboard. No Larry. I was worried beyond belief.
Then he came home carrying his surfboard and his wet suit down to his waist.
I immediately started asking him where he had been, why didn’t he come home, how could he be surfing at night…you know, like a ranting mother.
What he told me sounded so beautiful. The surf was full of plankton and that makes the ocean waves turn iridescent, and the sand sparkles when you walk on it.
Larry said when he caught a wave, and stood up, his body glowed along with the wave. That’s not all; it was a full moon.
It was an experience I would have felt worse if he had missed it.